Food improves the further you venture from St. Mark’s Place. The neighborhood of Dorsoduro, a short walk from Guggenheim’s house and Venice’s nearby art museum, the Gallerie dell’Accademia, has several pocket-sized restaurants off the Campo San Barnaba. A local contact sent us to the excellent Osteria Ai 4 Feri, on Calle Longa San Barnaba, which grills a range of fresh fish, served with salads and wine. If you find yourself at dinnertime on the other side of the Grand Canal, near Rialto Bridge, try the fine family-run Trattoria Ca’ d’Oro, on Alla Vedova, Cannaregio. This tiny restaurant tucked down a side lane was another recommendation from an Italian friend, and offers heartier food, like risotto and palenta, served with warmth.