Chef Alex Atala’s flagship restaurant was ranked fourth in this year’s San Pellegrino list. His secret: an ability to marry Amazonian ingredients with haute cuisine. If you can’t get a reservation, go at 9:30pm and plonk yourself down at the bar. There’s always a chance you’ll get a late table.
Bobby Ghosh is an editor-at-large at TIME. Ghosh Eats documents his high-low gastronomic adventures.