Gradually it became a tradition for First Ladies to donate their first inaugural gown to the Smithsonian soon after their debut. Lady Bird Johnson had been around Washington long before her inaugural ball, and knowing the exhibit, she carefully chose materials that would stand the test of time. No beading. No chiffon. No elaborate flower patterns. Just a simple satin yellow dress, designed by John Moore, and a matching satin coat cuffed with sable. Lady Bird, famed for her environmental efforts, also made history by formally announcing the causes she would take up during the term. Since 1965, Graddy says, there’s been a expectation that a President’s wife come into her role with an public agenda in mind.